ARCHIVED TIPS
Metric Conversion Chart,
Measuring Thread and
Working with Clasps,
Finishing Memory Wire
, Threading Beads on Leather,
Multi Strand Necklaces,
Bead Storage ,
Cleaning Beads,
Beading Surface,
Birthstone Colors,
Cleaning Silver,
Opening Jump Rings,
Threads,
Crimps, Choosing
Pliers,
ChoosingWire Cutters,
Drilling Holes In Beads,
All Pliers Are Not Created Equal,
Keeping Track of Loose Ends,
Lighting and magnification,
Photographing Beads &
Jewelry, Getting
Odors Out of Beads,
Headpin Loops,
Straightening Elastic Thread,
Measuring Without a Tape,
Using Extra Beads,
Working with Large Holed
Beads, Picking Up
Fallen Beads,
Designing with Beard

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Jump Rings
Kari Bryde
www.novelapproachdesigns.com I learned to evaluate 2 things when choosing jump rings: #1 - You need to use the jump ring in the lowest gauge that will work for your piece; i.e... a. A ring that will be able to fit through the chain/holes in whatever
your using them on #2 - You need to use a ring in the smallest diameter that will work on your piece, i.e...
a. A ring that will hold everything you are "jumping" together and
allow the needed movement So, basically use the lowest guage and smallest diameter jump ring that will work in order to get the greatest strength. I also double jump rings when I have to use a more delicate weight ring and it does help. I am not at the soldering level yet in jewelry making so this is how I keep jump rings from being a problem. I always keep on hand 16g/4mm rings (for chunky projects - these NEVER open up) and 20g/3mm rings (for delicate projects and I sometimes double them) - then I buy other sizes for fun and effect. I think the idea of doubling oval rings and putting the opening on opposite sides is great - will have to try that!
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