| 1.
Stitch the Beads
Getting Started
Measure off a comfortable length of thread (about 1.5 yds). Optional: wax it or condition with Thread Heaven™. Stretch it in sections to remove kinks.
Thread a size 10 needle.
The first row is a “ladder” of 2 beads in the Main
Color (MC). String 2 beads, leaving a tail of about 8". Loop around through both beads. Arrange the beads so they sit side-by-side. Loop through the beads a second time.
Notes:
For readability, the diagram shows only the first loop-through.
The first stitch in each row will always have two beads so that no thread shows at the edges.
To create the diamond shape, each of the next two rows will increase by one bead. The three rows after that will decrease by one bead. These two sets of five rows form one diamond, and are repeated to the end of the bracelet.
The first diamond is all one
color—the main color. The next diamond has alternating rows of the contrast
color.
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2.
Row 2: Increasing
String 2 beads (#3 & #4). Pass the needle, from back to front, under the thread loop between beads #1 & #2 of the base row and up through the last bead, bead #4.. Pull the thread tight and arrange the new beads so they sit correctly.
String one bead (#5), pass the needle, from back to front, under the same thread loop we just used. Stitch up through the new bead #5. Pull the thread snugly so the beads sit properly.
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3.
Row 3: Increasing
String 2 beads (#6 & #7). Pass the needle, from back to front, under the thread loop between beads #4 & #5 of the previous row. Then go up through bead #7.
Attach bead #8 to the next thread loop. Then add bead #9 to the same thread loop.
The row has 4 beads.
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| 4.
Row 4: Increasing
Add beads #10-#14 according to this diagram.
This row has 5 beads.
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5.
Row 5: Decreasing
String 2 beads (#15 & #16) as usual to start the row, but pass the needle under the second thread loop (between beads #11 & 12) and then needle up through the last bead added (#16).
Stabilize:
You will notice that these 2 beads do not sit straight—but here's how to fix that. Stitch down through bead #15 (the first bead just added), and back up through bead #16 (the last bead added). This “down, up” circular path makes the first two beads of a “decrease” row stand upright. Pull the thread tight and arrange the new beads so they stand at attention.
Complete the row, This row has 4 beads.
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| 6.
Row 6: Decreasing
Follow the technique in Row 5 to decrease this row by one bead. Row 6 has 3 beads.
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7.
Row 7: Decreasing
Follow the technique in Row 5 to decrease this row by one bead. Row 7 has 2 beads.
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| 8.
Row 8: New Diamond
This row starts the 2nd diamond. Use the Contrast
Color beads for Rows 1, 3, 5, & 7 of this diamond and the Main
Color for the other rows.
This row has 2 beads.
String 2 beads (#24 & #25). Pass the needle, from back to front, under the thread loop between the 2 beads of the previous row and then needle up through bead #25. Pull the thread tight and arrange the new beads so they sit correctly.
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| 9.
The Rest of the Bracelet
Repeat the 7 rows of each diamond until your bracelet is the desired length. The length of the bracelet will be determined by the size of your wrist. An average length is about 7.5 inches. Subtract 1 inch to allow for the clasp.
Note:
Remember to stabilize the first 2 beads of every decreasing row.
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| Clasp Overview
The clasp is a "ball & socket" clasp, Each half of the clasp
is attached with a jump ring to a loop of seed beads.
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| 10.
Adding a Loop for the Clasp
Remove the needle from the thread and replace it with the size 12 needle.
The thread is exiting one of the end beads. Pick up 9 of the size 15 seed beads (gold or silver
colored) and pass back through the other end bead to make a loop of beads.
To strengthen the loop of beads, pass back through all of the beads twice more. End the thread. (See #12 below.)
Adding the Other Loop
Thread the tail thread with the size 12 needle and repeat the instructions above to make a loop at the other end of the bracelet. End the thread as in #12 below.
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| 11.
Attach the Clasp
Open a jump ring with 2 pairs of pliers. Slip the jump ring through a loop of beads and the small ring at the end of a clasp half.
Close the jump ring. Repeat for the other half of the clasp. Make sure the bracelet is not twisted before you close the second jump ring.
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| 12.
Ending a Thread
You've just finished adding the loop of beads, and now it's time to end the thread.
Stitch down outside bead on the row below & then stitch up the bead beside that one, and down the bead beside that one. Stitch down to the next row (4-bead-row) and continue to zig-zag up and down beads. Give a tug on the loop of beads and when it is secure, clip your thread end. Friction will keep your thread end secure—you don't need to tie knots or add glue or nail polish.
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This Jester necklace uses 4
colors of round Japanese seed beads and some Japanese drop beads. There are 7 beads in each row—you start at one end of the necklace and work towards the other end. Each row increases one bead at the neck edge and decreases one bead on the outside edge. This is what creates a natural curve.
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This closeup shows that row 5 (right to left) has 5 blue beads, 1 silver bead and 1 blue bead.
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This is another brick stitch bracelet in a zig-zag pattern.
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And this is a matching Jester bracelet.
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References
An excellent book devoted to brick stitch is called Beading With Brick Stitch, by Diane Fitzgerald, from Interweave Press.
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Copyright 2006 Marilyn Gardiner.
All Rights Reserved.
Used with permission by the Beading Times.
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