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Going Upscale — Designing with Semi-Precious Stone beads and Sterling Silver

by Dwyn Tomlinson

Maybe you decided to try making some jewelry with semi-precious stone beads.

Perhaps you are making jewelry for resale and you have become aware that some people value semi precious more highly than glass — no matter how lovely the beads may be.

Perhaps you have just seen some of the very lovely semi-precious stone jewelry that is currently fashionable and you would like to make some for yourself.

Or, perhaps, as I was, you were smitten with a strand of some lovely stones at a bead show, and now you want to make it into something!

Did you know? Rock crystal, amethyst, smokey quartz, rose quartz, citrine, and ametrine are all color variations of quartz?

Matching any one of these designs exactly would depend on being able to find the exact same beads again. The nature of hand-made stone beads is that they vary, and the supply and availability of any given type of bead tends to change with time too.

However, my basic supply list includes:

Quartz chips (I buy these by the strand, as they are inexpensive, attractive and extend the more expensive beads.)
Stone beads, in coordinated colors, and a variety of sizes, eg.
- Amethyst faceted donuts and chips,
- rose quartz rounds in 4 and 6 mm.
- Smokey quartz donut rondelles.

Illustrated here, much enlarged, (top) amethyst chips, nice dark color; (center) 8 mm amethyst rounds, (right) faceted amethyst "lump," (lower center) faceted citrine donut rondelle, (left and lower left), faceted amethyst donut rondelle. Citrine is a variety of quartz, as is amethyst. When you get the two meeting in one bead, it is called Ametrine.

Sterling daisy spacers or star-shaped spacers (compare these and see which you like best. The star spacers give a lighter, sparklier effect.)
Sterling round beads, 2, 3, 4 mm
Focal sterling beads, half dozen or so
Sterling clasp
Beading wire, such as medium or fine Softflex or Accuflex.
Crimp beads, sterling
French wire or "gimp" for a nice finishing touch

Star spacers and daisy spacers

You can see from my list that I usually pair sterling silver with semi-precious stone. While I make these necklaces for myself — I like to make them to the same standards as if I were to sell them. Some of the stones I use tend to be on the pricey side, and so I feel they deserve to be paired with the higher-end sterling silver beads and findings. If I were to sell them, then it would be even more important, as the jewelry buying public expects to find sterling silver paired with semi-precious stone.

When buying semi-precious (or colored) stone beads, the same four Cs apply as when buying diamonds: Cut, Clarity, Color, and Carat weight. Which is to say:

a faceted stone is more expensive than a smooth one;
clear stones without a lot of "stuff" (inclusions) are more valuable;
richer colored stones are pricier than pale ones of the same type; and, no surprise,
big beads are more expensive than small ones (with the exception of sometimes very tiny beads, i.e. 3 mm, are more expensive, generally, than 4 mm, because there is more waste in cutting them.)

The more you look at stone beads and handle them, the more you will be able to able to judge quality:

For instance: In this picture, the quartz chips on the left vary from clear to dirty yellow. The chips on the right are very clear, and have polished holes. They were also four times as expensive. Both are quartz chips, but the strand on the right is much better quality as it is a better color (clear in this case), clearer (less inclusions), and they are larger. (Cut is not applicable in this case).

Things to remember when buying stone beads

Often light-colored beads are strung on colored thread, this can make them appear a deeper color than they will appear strung on a light colored beading wire (this is such a common practice that it is not considered deceptive, just "marketing.")

From a single strand of beads, some with the colored thread removed.

There are many artificial or treated beads out there. This is not necessarily a misrepresentation. Don't be afraid to ask what the stone is, and if the color is natural. Don't alienate the vendor by turning up your nose at dyed stones. If the dye is permanent, and you are aware of it, then there is no deception. Dyeing gives us access to some wonderful colors that would not be affordable or possible otherwise.
Beads are often sold on strands, which can be expensive. If you can find a bead store that will sell some of the larger beads separately, you can afford more variety. Generally, vendors at shows selling strands will not break-up strands.
If you visit a bead fair or show, some vendors will offer a discount if you carry a business license or are prepared to buy in large quantities. (Hint: $50 is not a large quantity. $200 might be. $2,000 probably is.)
If shopping a show, review the entire show first before purchasing, and don't be afraid to bargain or ask the prices if they are not labeled.
Take twice as much cash as you plan to spend, leave the credit cards at home. This will be cheaper in the long run!
The annual show in Tuscon is the mecca for gemstone bead buying, but don't feel you have to go there to buy. As a beginner, you'd probably be overwhelmed and bankrupt, so hunt around for a local show first.
If you thought beads were addictive, semi-precious beads are twice as addictive!

Designing the necklace

I design as I go, but I have done enough of these that I am basically making variations on a theme. I like to make the necklaces long, opera length, about 38 inches. I like this length, as it hangs long and I can wear multiple necklaces, but choose a length that works best for you. Although these necklaces are long enough not to need a clasp, I use one any way so that I can wear them as a two strand necklace, or even wrapped around a wrist as a multi-strand bracelet.

I like to keep the design simple, and let the natural beauty of the stones speak for themselves. I often use clear quartz chips to extend my other stones and make them go further.

Stone holes tend to be small, and can be sharp, so chose a rugged, but fine or medium, beading wire, like a .019 inch diameter. Cut about 8 inches more than you need for the total length. If you are not certain, always err on the side of cutting the wire too long. You can use the short leftover pieces to make earrings.

I start in the center, with a center bead or segment. For instance, in this piece, I started with a dark, smoky quartz faceted donut rondelle. I flanked it with a sterling daisy spacer, and a 4 mm sterling round bead on each side. I then chose two slightly lighter, but matching donuts to go on each side. Each one also has a daisy spacer on each side. By varying the stones, but repeating the pattern of the sterling silver, the final necklace has a more unified and coordinated look.

I then add 5 quartz chips on each side, and another "spacer | round | spacer" combination. The quartz chips vary in size, and I make some attempt to pick more or less the same size for each side of the necklace. However, I have found that they tend to balance out as the necklace progresses, so I don't worry about it too much. (I used to try and thread the same length of chips on each side, regardless of number, but the chips tend to "settle" and pack together.)

Keep adding to one side of the necklace, then the other. This will keep the pattern balanced. This also gives you a chance to adjust the design based on the materials you have at hand. For instance, you will see very quickly if you are running out of something, and need to adjust by adding more of something else.

Vary the pattern, or repeat two different patterns of beads, but make them more complicated than OOXOO. In the above example, we have three donuts in the center, flanked by chips, then a single donut, chips, single donut, chips, then a repeat of the three donut pattern from the center.

For this necklace, I used sterling beads, quartz rounds, faceted quartz donuts, and star-shaped spacers.

I concentrate the major design elements at the front of the necklace. For the sides and back, I simplify the design. Especially near the clasp, I tend to use smaller beads, as this part is not seen very often, and less bulk at the back of the neck is more comfortable and fits better under hair, collars, etc.

Some Design Ideas

Here are some design samples

You can use multiple daisy spacers side by side for a neat effect. (But be aware that this can get pricey!)

This necklace started with a strand of mixed amethyst, peridot, and citrine that I bought. The colors are pale and the quality is not high, but by using a sterling spacer between each stone, I made the colors seem darker and richer then by stringing them by themselves. Quartz chips in the center 4 mm daisy spacer each side 4 mm round each side 8 mm sterling 4 mm round each side 4 mm daisy spacer each side large quartz chip faceted rondelles alternating with a daisy spacer in amethyst, citrine, peridot, amethyst quartz chip faceted rondelles alternating with a daisy spacer in amethyst, citrine, peridot, amethyst quartz chips, etc.
This necklace was designed to showcase the amethyst rounds and donuts. in the center is a faceted amethyst donut, of nice dark color on each side, is a daisy spacer then 5 dark amethyst chips a daisy spacer one amethyst round one sterling round one amethyst round one daisy spacer 5 quartz chips one daisy spacer one amethyst donut etc.
This necklace was designed to showcase the faceted amethyst beads. You can see that the color in these rondelles is not as rich as the chips in the above necklace, making a paler and more delicate look overall. the center bead is a faceted amethyst bead, roughly oval, about 18 mm long it is flanked by a daisy spacer one 2 mm round sterling one daisy spacer five 6 mm (approx) amethyst faceted rondelles repeat the daisy spacer \| round \| daisy spacer combo one quartz chip repeat the daisy spacer \| round \| daisy spacer combo repeat five amethyst rondelles etc.
This was made to accompany other necklaces. By itself, it is a little plain for my taste. In the center, there is a Bali sterling silver bead there is a star spacer on each side, then 10 mm round quartz crystal, with a star spacer on each side, alternating with 1 faceted donut rondelle - these all have two star spacers on either side after 5 of these, insert a sterling focal bead. repeat the alternating round \| donut pattern substitute an 8 mm round for one of the donuts to vary the pattern etc.

You can see that by designing short, repeating elements, and then alternating them with other, short repeating elements, you can design a necklace that:showcases some expensive beads, is reasonably priced, is visually interesting, but also cohesive and hangs together as a design. It is also more interesting to string!

Other tips and tricks:

Use cheaper stones to extend the more expensive stones, chips look good and are significantly less expensive.
Sterling tarnishes with time. Resist the urge to mix non-sterling with sterling, as it will be very obvious once the sterling develops a patina.
Occasionally, a stone bead will have a hole that "dead ends" and the wire will not go all the way through. Turn the bead around and string from the other end.

This pewter bead matched the sterling when first strung, but is now obviously different.

When you have enough length, you need to add a clasp. For this I use sturdy, sterling crimp beads. As these necklaces can be heavy, sometimes I will use two crimps for added security.

Add a sterling round bead with a large hole before the clasp. To get a nice, finished look, you need to run the beading wire back through a few beads to hide the end, and you want to ensure you have at least one bead with a large enough hole to do this. (Remember, the holes in the stone beads can be very small). This shows a sterling "S"-shaped "infinity" clasp, with a soldered jumpring for a ring.

For a very polished finish, you can use French wire or Gimp to hide the beading wire or cable.

French wire is a very tiny coil of silver wire. If you stretch it out, you can see this (but don't stretch it, as it will not spring back. It slides over your beading wire and and disguises it.

Stretched out (and now useless) French wire.

Cut two lengths of French wire, about .25 to .5 inch each.

Add your crimp bead, and a piece of French wire.
Slide on your clasp (this is a Bali sterling silver clasp that coordinates with the beads used in the necklace).
Feed the end of the wire back through the crimp bead and down through whatever beads you can fit it through. The crimp bead sometimes slides over the French wire, and you might have to fiddle to get everything in the right order.
Pull tight. If you have used chips, they tend to settle and pack together, (usually after you have crimped the wire - this opens an unsightly gap), so make sure you push all the chips together nice and tight. Then pick the necklace up and give it a little shake, so that they will move down the line and snug together.
The finished clasp. No wire showing!
Crimp the crimp bead to secure the wire. Use a pair of crimp pliers (or chainnose pliers) to securely crush the crimp bead and fasten the end. It is important to crimp the bead so that there is an indent between the two pieces of cable. To use crimp pliers, use the second hole (use it first) to crush the crimp bead and put in the indent. The first hole (using this is optional) folds the bead around itself for a neat finish.
To use the chainnose pliers instead of crimp pliers, start by threading the cable in the same way. Use the chainnose pliers to firmly squash the crimp bead. Then, using roundnose pliers, turn the pliers to lengthwise (with the cable,) and squash an indent between the two pieces of cable. Squash hard. Repeat for the other side. Cut off the tail end of the wire carefully (you don't want to cut the main wire and have to start again).

And there you have it! A stunning semi-precious and sterling silver necklace!

The items shown are from the personal collection of the author, and are not for sale. Feel free to be inspired by them and make your own!

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