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Chainmail: Japanese Flower EarringsMobius Flower Earrings

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Byzantine Earrings:
an introduction to chainmail

by Marilyn Gardiner:
www.MarilynGardiner.com

Introduction

This is the third project in a series of chainmail earrings for beginners.

This month's chainmail weave is called Byzantine. You may see references to some of its other names: Idiot's Delight, King's Link, Birdcage, and others. Byzantine is one of the most popular weaves & it is very versatile. Changes in the size of the wire and the rings can produce very different looks. As well, the basic byzantine segments can be linked together in different ways to make interesting bracelets, necklaces & collars. And Byzantine is perfect for adding beads!

Metals

Many different metals can be used to make jump rings. You will see copper (plain & enameled), sterling silver, fine silver, argentium silver, gold (in different shades), anodized aluminum, bright aluminum, brass, bronze, steel, niobium, titanium and even more. See Urban Maille and The Ring Lord for more information about these different metal rings.

One of the most interesting recent developments in metal for jewelry is Argentium Sterling Silver. it is still 92.5% silver, but the alloy used, germanium, makes it virtually tarnish-free. You can anticipate seeing this product available in the future as refiners and jewelers become more familiar with it.

Once you have made the earrings, it would be easy to start a more challenging project such as this bracelet.

Chainmail Weaves This weave is part of the European family of chainmail weaves. Take a look at this website to see other weaves in this family.

Supplies

The larger jump rings in the bottom segment of each earring are made from 1.0 mm diameter (18 gauge) round sterling silver wire.
The inside diameter (ID) of the rings is 4 mm.
Quantity: 28 rings

The smaller jump rings in the top segment of each earring are made from 0.8 mm (20 gauge) sterling wire with an ID of 3.5 mm.
Quantity: 26 rings

2 sterling silver headpins with a ball, or other decorative end & 1.5" in length

2 6mm crystals or gemstones
The photo shows a fuschia AB Swarovski™ crystal, but onyx or amethyst or turquoise would look wonderful, either round or faceted.

1 pair of earring findings
• french wire, • post, • lever-back, • clip on
See: Earring Findings for examples.

How to: OPEN AND CLOSE JUMP RINGS

To Open a Ring
Use 2 pairs of pliers to hold the sides of a jump ring with the opening at the top (12 o’clock).

Hold the ring steady with your non-dominant hand while you rotate the wrist of your dominant (writing) hand, twisting the pliers tip away from you.

Never open up the loop by pulling it side to side—you won’t get it back into a true circle.

Tools

2 pairs of smooth-jawed jewelers' pliers

1 pair of round-nose pliers

See Earring Project 1 for more information about pliers.

The round-nose pliers are used for adding the bead with a simple loop.

To Close a Ring
Use 2 pairs of pliers to hold the sides of a jump ring with the opening at the top (12 o’clock).

Pull the ring ends back together by rotating your wrists and exerting a bit of inward pressure. You may hear a “click” as the ends meet.

The goal is to have the two ends lined up exactly, with no space between them.

Move the ends back and forth by small amounts to adjust the fit. If you go a bit past where they are even, they will spring back and match exactly.

Spend the time to close each ring carefully—this will be the mark of a professional finish to your work.

----------------------------The Project: Byzantine Earrings--------------------
Overview: The Byzantine Segment

This chainmail pattern is composed of Byzantine segments that are linked together by a pair of jump rings top and bottom. (The red oval on the photo outlines the bottom segment.)

The earrings in this kit are each composed of 2 segments. The upper segment is made from a thinner silver wire, and the inside diameter of the rings is smaller.

The lower segment is heavier. It is made from a a bit thicker wire, and the inside diameter of the rings is a bit larger.

Swarovski™ crystals or semi-precious stones (6 mm) are threaded on Bali headpins & closed with a simple loop.

Each complete segment uses 14 jump rings, but the 2 end rings are shared if there are adjacent segments.

Step 1
Start by using the larger 4mm jump rings to make the lower segment.

Close 4 rings (red) and open 2 rings (yellow). Hold one open ring with the pliers, gather up the 4 closed rings, and then close that ring. Add the 6th ring along the same path.

Attach a twist tie to an end-pair of rings. Your 2-in-2 chain should look like this photo.

Step 2
Hold the twist tie and the first pair of rings with your thumb & first finger.

Flip the end rings, one to each side, as in this photo.

Now fold those 2 rings down and hold them between your fingers, as in the photo below, so the middle rings (yellow) are exposed.

Step 3
Separate those two middle rings (yellow dots). Peek between them and see the top edges of those 2 end rings you flipped to the sides (red dots). See this photo.

Use a crochet hook, a hat pin, an awl, a piece of wire, or something similar to help lift up those 2 center rings (marked with red dots) a bit. This marks the path for inserting the next 2 rings!

Step 4
Pick up an open ring with your pliers and insert it through this path. This ring is marked with a green line in the photo.

Close the ring.

Step 5
Add a second ring through this same space and close it too.

This photo shows the results.

Step 6
Insert another pair of rings into the last pair (with green dots).

Insert another pair of rings into that pair.

You now have 3 linked pairs just like you started with in step 1.

Repeat steps 2-5 to create the second fold and add the 2 end rings to complete the byzantine segment.

The diagrams below show front and side views of one byzantine segment.

Step 12 adds 2 more pairs for the first fold of the second segment. Use the smaller 3.5mm jump rings for these 2 pairs, and for the rest of the second segment.

Add the bead
Place a crystal or stone bead on each headpin. Use roundnose pliers to make a simple basic loop on each. Scroll further down if you need instructions.

Now open that loop correctly (with 2 pairs of pliers) and attach it to the 2 end rings of the larger byzantine segment.

Variations

Here is a stunning necklace that is meant to be worn with your new earrings.

Separate byzantine segments are linked at the top edge. A wrapped crystal or bead is linked in place between pairs of segments. The part of the necklace behind the neck is a continuous series of byzantine segments.

----------------------------How To Wrap a Bead With a Simple Loop--------------------

Step 1
Slip a small 3.5 mm closed ring onto the roundnose pliers & make a mark just above it with a permanent fine-tip marker.

Step 2
Thread a bead on a head pin. Use your fingers to bend the wire to a 90 degree angle above the bead.

Step 3
Grab the wire in the roundnose pliers close inside the bend, with the wire on the mark, and the tail of the wire pointing towards you.

Step 4
Bend the wire up over the top jaw.

Step 5
Continue bending the wire around until it points towards the floor.

Step 6
Without removing the loop, rotate the pliers 180 deg. towards you, Pull the tail wire up towards you to close the loop.

Step 7
Hold the tail wire in your non-dominant hand & with the flush cutters carefully clip that wire just on the other side of the wire that comes out of the bead. Make sure to turn the cutters to flush-cut the side of the wire that butts up against the loop.

Step 8
Use the chainnose pliers to make any slight adjustments to center the loop.

Copyright 2006 Marilyn Gardiner.
All Rights Reserved.
Used with permission by the Beading Times.

 

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