Semi-Precious Beads

By  Sandra Paluzzi
 The Bead Peddler®

It seems like there are a zillion different types of semi precious gemstone beads out there.  They are typically sold in 16 inch strands.  Strands price out at all different price ranges, from the very, very cheap to the very, very expensive.  How do you decide which beads to buy? 

One important consideration is the 'hardness' of the stone. The hardness of a stone is it's ability to withstand scratches.  Mohs scale is the most commonly used table for gemstone hardness.  Gems are given a number from 1 to 10, with 1 being the softest and 10 the hardest.  Most of you probably known that diamonds are extremely hard with a rating of 10.  Quartz has a rating of 7 which is generally considered the watermark rating.  If a stone has a rating of under 7, it can be scratched by particles in the air.  Two of my favorite stones, apatite and opal are very soft.  Both could easily break if used in a bracelet.  Earrings and necklaces do not take as much abuse.  When choosing the shape of a softer bead, keep in mind that scratches are more obvious in a facetted bead than in a smooth surfaced bead.

Stones are graded for color, cut, clarity and carat weight.  AAA is the highest rating for beautiful color and no inclusions.  While you can get beads of AAA rating, many of the semi precious bead strands have ratings of B or even C-.  There will be a difference in both the look and price of a AAA bead and that of a B grade bead.  For example, I recently saw a 16 inch strand of AAA amethyst beads being sold at 18.00.  A lesser grade of amethyst - advertised as having beautiful inclusions - was available for 4.00.  The grade you choose will have a lot to do with the final value you can charge for your jewelry in your market.

If only choosing a gemstone were as simple as looking at the hardness and grade of a beads!  But there are many other factors.  Most gemstones are color treated.  That, in itself, is not a problem.  However, a dyed gemstone can present a serious problem.  Dyes can run.  They can also fade.  Jade, chalcedony, pearls and onyx are a few of the stones that are frequently dyed.  A reconstituted gem has been crushed and mixed with acrylic resins to create a larger bead.   If you have ever seen a semi-precious knife handle or letter opener, you have probably seen a reconstituted gem. Malachite and turquoise beads are often reconstituted.  Then, there are simulated gemstone beads. A simulated gemstone is not a gemstone - it is a 'look-a-like'.  Some simulated stones are great - for example, there are some beautiful cz beads now hitting the market.  Other look-a-likes simply do not work.  In my humble opinion, I have never seen a good simulated alexandrite.  However, I have seen very nice lab created alexandrites.  Lab created stones have the same properties of a natural stone and are indeed that stone.  A created emerald is indeed an emerald.  Of course, it is not nearly as expensive as a comparable natural emerald.  Different people have different standards - I would be thrilled to have created emerald beads - they would give me a great look at a relatively inexpensive price.  Others want only the natural stones.

I do not think it matters what you prefer.  I do, however, think that it is important that you know what you are buying.  There is a HUGE market for grade B gemstones, but people should know that they are getting grade B gemstones when they plunk down their money.  It is all about truth in marketing.  And to me,  truth in marketing lies in full disclosure. 

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