I made this pair in all 14k Gold Fill but you may choose Rose Gold Fill, Sterling, Copper or a mix of two or three metals.  If using copper just make sure to use either sterling or gold fill ear wires.

Tools:

Chain nose pliers

Bur cup/rounder for smoothing wire ends  Pin vices or wire twisters of some kind

Low tack tape

Flush cut wire cutters

Flat nose pliers

You will also need a chubby felt tip marker or similar round object to shape your earrings on.

Optional:  Tumbler and Stainless Steel Shot

Supplies:

45” 21 ga square Soft Gold Fill or Sterling wire

12”   22 ga 1/2 round 1/2 hard GF or SS wire

1 pair of matching ear wires.

Cut 8 pieces of wire to 3” in length

Twist the remaining 21 inches of wire

Cut 4 pieces of twisted wire to 3” and

cut 2 pieces at 4”

You should have a total of 7 wires for each earring

The easy way to cut multiple wires to one size is after cutting your first one simply lay it next to your long wire.  Be sure the ends are even and cut your next piece.  Continue this until you have all your pieces.

Step1

Now gather all your wires into two bundles.

First take four plain wires, two 3” twisted wires and one long twisted wire.  Gather them side by side with the long twisted wire in the middle flanked by the short twisted wires and then two plain wires on the outer sides. 

Tape in two places back about a half inch from the ends. Now do the same for the other set of wires.  Try and get all the short wires even at the top end.  If  you can't you can clip them even later.

Step 2

Take your piece of  half  round and form a hook at one end

Step 3

Hook the half round around your wire bundle.  The side the end of the hook is on will be the back of your earrings.  Make five wraps and end on the back.

Make sure the end of your half round wire ends on the back side.  Clip off excess.  You can now position your binding wire a little better.  Just take your thumb or thumbnail and slide the binding wire up until only about 1/4” of your bundle shows at the top.  You can then tighten down the binding wires with your flat nose pliers.  Sometimes I lay it on my protected bench block and tap with a rawhide mallet.

Step4

Now repeat the last two steps at the bottom of your bundle.

You can now repeat the above three procedures for the second earring.

Step5

O.K., now that you've completed all that it's time to do the finishing touches.  Take and bend the tips of each of your top outer wires over.  Make sure you bend them towards the back of your earring.

You can start with anyone of these wires but I like to start with the outer ones then the inner ones nestle between them nicely.

NOTE:  If you're not tumbling be sure to file all ends before tightening down.

Step 6

This is how your top should look after bending over all the base wires.  Snug them down lightly.

Step 7

Now repeat steps 5 and 6 at the bottom of your earring.  Make sure your ends are even clipping any wires that are too long.  You want all these to be about 1/4” long measuring from the end of your binding wire.

Now repeat steps 5 through 7 for your second earring.

Step 8

Take your chain nose pliers and clamp them around the long wire at the top of your piece perpendicular to the body of the earring.  I placed the wire about 3/8” down from the tip.  You may wish to have that area longer or shorter.

Step 9

Bend that long wire out to the side so it's at a right angle.  When you look at your earring straight on that wire should be straight out to the side

Step 10

Now move your pliers onto the top of that wire snuggling the tips into the first bend.  Clamp your pliers onto that wire about 3/8” from the tip or so when you make your next bend it's just about even with the side of your earring.  Now bend your wire up and over your pliers so it goes straight across the top.

Step 11

Here you can see that second bend better.  Now move your pliers over to the other side and bend the wire down and around the bottom of your pliers.  You'll just have to eyeball the placement.  You want this bend even with the side of your earring.  When completed the distance between those bends is about 3/8”

Step 12

I know, this is a terrible photo but you can get the idea.  You want the end of the wire you're working with to cross over at the center.  Be sure it crosses on the front.

Step 13

Bend your tail around the center post area and tighten.  I use my flat nose pliers across the part we just completed to hold firmly while I do this.

This is what the top of your earring should look like at this point.  Now we're going to shape this part a little more.

Step 14

Take two pair of pliers, I'm using my flat nose pliers but flat nose and chain nose will work.  Place your pliers so the sides meet in the middle of the upper part of the wire.  You may want to put a little mark where the center of the wire is if it will make it easier.

Now bend the center sides of both pliers at once upward a bit.  What you want here is a bit of an inverted V at this point

This photo shows what you're trying to achieve in step 14.  You may find a better way to do it, you may also want a shorter “stem” between this section and the body of your earrings.  The V is to keep the earrings hanging straight on your ear wires

Repeat steps 9 through 14 for the second earring.

Step 15

Now your ready to shape your earrings.  Take your chubby marker or what ever you're going to use for a mandrel.  Place your earring end on the mandrel at a right angle as shown and hold firmly.

Step 16

Keep holding the end of your earring with your thumb and bend around your mandrel until the end almost touches the upper part.  When you release the pressure it will spring back a little.

Step 17

Attach your ear wire and repeat steps 15, 17 and 17 for the other earring.

If you have a tumble polisher you can now do that and you have a beautiful pair of earrings.

These earrings are a lot of fun to make and to wear.  You can make them longer or shorter, more rounded like open hoops or leave them totally straight.  You can mix metals, use all straight wires or all twisted wires.  You can even fan the bottom sections out.

Hope you all enjoy creating a beautiful wardrobe of earrings!